Chow chow, shoofly pie, schnitz and knepp, chicken pot pie, dried corn,
whoopie pies… Most visitors to Amish Country enjoy at least one or two
of these special foods. Many cookbooks offer recipes for Amish dishes, yet
many of these recipes are really part of the larger world of Pennsylvania
Dutch (German) cooking. For example, my grandmother handed down her
"schnitz and knepp" recipe to my mother, yet most Amish don’t
eat this unique dish.
In the Pot, Not the Pie
If you enjoy a traditional meal while visiting the area, you may have a
chance to try a local favorite, chicken pot pie. Some people think this is
chicken in a pastry shell baked in the oven, but what they discover is
squares of dough cooked in broth with pieces of chicken. Locals sometimes
argue as to what is and is not acceptable for traditional chicken pot pie,
from potatoes to peas to carrots to saffron. Some cooks make a thick and
hearty pasta, while others make one that is light and thin. Making the
dough for this stew is really quite simple, being nothing more than eggs,
flour, and milk.
How Now, Chow Chow?
Chow chow is surely the area’s most famous relish, one that goes well
with the other starchy foods often served. It is said that when ladies
neared the end of the canning (cooking and sealing vegetables in jars),
they often had odd amounts left over from their gardens. So, everything
would get combined as chow chow --- carrots, onions, cauliflower,
cucumbers, cabbage, celery, corn, peppers, and assorted beans. Chow chow
is sometimes referred to as "End of the Season" relish. Although
there is sugar in the liquid, it’s that sour taste that everyone
remembers.
Traditional Space Age Food
Corn in various forms is a popular food here, from corn relish and corn
fritters, to corn meal mush and our wonderful chicken corn soup, a staple
at local fire company dinners. Long before astronauts were taking
dehydrated foods into space to eat, the local Pennsylvania Dutch were
applying the same idea to corn and apples, drying them for use later in
the year. The kernels from the corn cobs were removed, dried, and then
stored. After soaking them in water overnight, they could be boiled and
served as that nutty-tasting favorite, dried corn.
Dried apples are referred to as "schnitz" and are used in
pies and the unique dish known as "Schnitz and Knepp," which is
sometimes difficult to find at area restaurants. The dried apple slices
are cooked with pieces of ham. The "knepp" is a kind of round
bread dumpling that is cooked with everything else. A thick sauce emerges,
and it is a truly unusual entrée, actually a meal in itself.
Shoo, Flies!
Perhaps no other single dessert is so identified with Amish Country as
is the shoofly pie. First-time visitors always want to know what it is. We
might say it is more like a coffeecake, with a gooey molasses bottom. This
bottom can be thick or barely visible, hence we refer to pies as
wet-bottom or dry-bottom. Some cooks put chocolate icing on top for a
chocolate shoofly pie. Some use spices; some don't. There does seem to be
agreement that they are best slightly warmed with a major dab of whipped
cream on top. There are even recipes for shoofly cake.
Shoofly pies can be tasted in most of the area restaurants, where you
can usually buy one to take home as well. Most people find them very
sweet, what with all that molasses and brown sugar. If you like sweet
desserts, you'll probably love shoofly pie.
But how did these pies get their name? The most logical explanation
seems to be that the sweet ingredients attracted flies when the pies were
cooling. The cooks had to "shoo" the flies away, hence the name
shoofly pie.
Another story claims that this is really a French recipe, and that the
crumb topping of the pie resembled the surface of the cauliflower, which
is "cheux-fleur" in French. This was eventually pronounced as
shoofly. Locals have a little problem with that explanation, and most of
us have never seen this pie served up in the fine restaurants of Paris.
No less an authority on things Pennsylvania Dutch than John Joseph
Stoudt states clearly that shoofly pies "are soundly Pennsylvanian,
made in the earlier days with sorghum, later with molasses, and with brown
rather than granulated sugar." Phyllis Pellman Good, in her book
AMISH COOKING, feels that these pies may have been common because
"this hybrid cake within a pie shell" faired better in the old
style bake ovens after the bread had been baked. With modern kitchen
stoves, temperatures could be controlled and the more standard, lighter
pies developed.
Here is a "classic" recipe, which uses New Orleans molasses
(French after all?). Just be sure to use a good, thick molasses. Mix
crumbs made from 1½ cup of flour, 1 cup of brown sugar, ¼ cup of butter
or lard. Take ½ cup of New Orleans molasses, ½ cup of hot water
(scalding), ½ teaspoon of soda in molasses and water. Fill two pre-rolled
piecrusts with the molasses mixture and put crumbs on top. Bake until
firm.
Whoopie!
Another kind of "pie" is the whoopie pie. I have never been
able to discover anyone with a story on how it was named. It’s not
really a pie. It is basically a glorified Oreo cookie—two pieces of
moist chocolate cake with white icing in the middle. Variations include
peanut butter icing, vanilla cake, pumpkin cake, oatmeal cookies and
icing, and even red cake and green icing at Christmas. The true gourmet
travels Lancaster County in search of the many variations and the
"ultimate" whoopie pie. They go well with a glass of fresh, cold
milk. And I love to freeze them and eat them like an ice cream sandwich.
Spread It On!
Finally, if you want to try a popular Amish food item at home, make
some "church spread." Common after most Amish church services to
spread on the bread, it is made with a combination of corn syrup or
molasses, marshmallow cream, and peanut butter. You’ll probably be
hooked on it for life.
Eat Here or Take Out
While you are in the Lancaster area, be sure to try some of these
unique foods. Family-style and smorgasbord restaurants offer the chance to
sample a wide variety, while "a la carte" restaurants allow you
to be selective, often taking the more traditional recipes and adapting
them in creative ways. Many people enjoy trying their hand at these local
specialties by buying one of the many excellent cookbooks available. And
of course, you can purchase most of these foods to take home, have them
shipped to you or a friend, and even order them online! No matter where
you live, the wonderful world of Pennsylvania Dutch cooking is never far
away. So, go ahead and "eat yourself full!"